The Pulaski Trail
Over three million acres burned across the Northern Rockies in 1910, an era of limited communication and information sharing. Firefighters and citizens were largely left to their own instincts on how to control the many fires that burned that summer. Then, on August 20, as a powerful cold front moved across the region, the objective abruptly shifted from fire control to human survival. Seventy-eight firefighters and an unknown number of civilians perished during the ensuing firestorm. This was a watershed event for the nation; the fledgling U.S. Forest Service; as well as the firefighters in that era…and it still has learning points for present day firefighters.
The Old Men and Fire (OM&F) group met in Wallace, Idaho on Tuesday July 16, 2024 for their 3rd annual gathering. All six of the original Plank Owner members made the trip along with two invited guests (Cindy Champion, retired Smokejumper and Kurt La Rue retired Hotshot Superintendent and BLM NIFC staffer). Once again, Ken Kremensky hit a homerun with the group’s accommodations at the historic Tabor House and the group enjoyed preparing our own welcome dinner at the house. On Wednesday, the OM&F group of eight souls hiked the Pulaski Tunnel Trail which parallels Placer Creek just south of Wallace and availed ourselves of the many interpretive signs along the route. The signs gave background ranging from events leading to the fateful day of August 20 to the “Big Burn” and the aftermath. The two-mile uphill trail leads to an overlook of the Pulaski Tunnel (formerly the Nicholson Mine adit), located near the creek at the bottom of a steep narrow gorge covered in timber.
Upon returning to Wallace that afternoon, the group inspected a couple local breweries and the mining museum which houses Ed Pulaski’s original Pulaski tool adaptation. The closeout dinner was prepared and enjoyed at our Tabor House kitchen as the group discussed their observations of the Big Burn and Ed Pulaski’s actions.
The OM&F group dispersed on Thursday and four members of our group would join another group several days later for a hike into Mann Gulch to acknowledge the 75th anniversary of that event. This Mann Gulch hike was organized by Don Will, former Mendocino Hotshot Superintendent.
Individual Takeaways:
Tom Boatner, former Smokejumper Base Manager and Bureau of Land Management Chief of Fire Operations – When thinking about what my takeaway should be from our recent trip, I keep returning to the idea of Unintended Consequences. When leaders make decisions, they always should be considering the unintended consequences of the decisions they are making and the actions they are taking. Too often, we only consider the desired outcomes, what we want to happen, or think will happen, and neglect to consider unexpected or negative outcomes. Too often, our perspective is too narrow and excludes consideration of possible negative outcomes or long-term consequences.
After the 1910 blowup, the young USFS dedicated itself to fighting fire and excluding fire from USFS land. It seemed so obviously the right decision at that time. Fire destroys timber and forests and endangers communities and human infrastructure. Fire is evil and must be eliminated. This became a fundamental objective for almost all public land management at the federal, state, and local level. We all started our fire careers, where that objective still stood, and we had become excellent at achieving it. Only slowly, did we begin to realize that these old decisions, ingrained mindsets were actually slowly building a fire problem far beyond our imaginations. The Park Fire north of Chico has burned over 300,000 acres in 72 hours. One reason is because the fire is in an area where fire has been successfully removed for decades and the fuels buildup has become explosive. A million acres have burned in Oregon in the past week and the current air quality in Boise is hovering between the Unhealthy category and Hazardous category. Not too many of us saw this kind of fire season coming when we were younger. Climate change is a big part of the current fire scene, but century old decisions are also involved.
When I hear people talking about how to deal with the current fire situation and climate change in North America, or the world, I am wary of experts who seem certain that they have the correct tactical or strategic answers. Too often, we believe we have the right answers only to have the passage of time reveal to us that, yet again, we aren't as all-knowing as we sometimes think we are. It's a reminder to me, to visualize the consequences of our decisions, long-term and short-term, positive and negative.
Dan Buckley, former Hotshot Superintendent and National Park Service Fire Director – We do need to remember and honor those wildland firefighters who have lost their lives because of wildfire. We also need to remember to take care of the survivors of fatality incidents, realizing the trauma they lived through will impact them physically and mentally for the rest of their lives. We are all in this business together, whether a rookie firefighter in their first year, or an old man in fire.
Cindy Champion, former Smokejumper - What was impressed upon me is the display of human nature in times of crisis and how the reaction for each individual can vary from terror and panic all the way to “stay calm, think clearly, act decisively.”
Jim Cook, former Hotshot Superintendent and US Forest Service Training Projects Coordinator – We rightly recognize Ed Pulaski’s heroic actions to guide 40+ firefighters to safety. He put the safety of these men above his own well-being. He left his wife and daughter to their own resources back in the town of Wallace which was almost completely destroyed by the fire. Yet, I can’t help but think that in today’s environment the focus would be on the five firefighters that did not survive and finding something to correct; rather than focusing on what was done right.
Ken Kremensky, former Lakeside Fire Department Chief and current Barona Fire Department Chief – This is the second staff ride where we have encountered the Buffalo Soldiers engaged in firefighting operations. They were looked down upon by the community of Wallace; however their heroic actions saving part of the town changed the opinion of the residents. It is amazing to me seeing the fuel build as we hiked up the Pulaski Trail. I can see where fires back in 1910, started by lightning previous to the big blow up, were fanned by the Palouse winds that day and rolled into Wallace causing such destruction and panic among the residents. Ed Pulaski with his skills and leadership saved most of his firefighters by sheltering them in the mine tunnel. The perspective of that many firefighters crammed into the small entrance seemed quite a feat. Of course he had to resort to threatening some of them at gun point for their own good. I can also see where a fire of that magnitude, for an unseasoned firefighter, could cause such concern for them to run; not knowing the fire behavior that was about to consume everything in its path.
My experience with the Cedar, Witch and Harris fires, wind driven in San Diego County with life loss and injuries, drives home the point for firefighters to learn from these past incidents to keep themselves and their firefighters from getting into a compromising situation on a running fire. I gain more knowledge from each of these staff rides and would encourage all firefighters, especially those in leadership roles, to engage in these opportunities to educate their folks. I am blessed to be a part of this group with their vast experience.
Kurt La Rue, former Hotshot Superintendent and Bureau of Land Management NIFC Fire Operations Specialist – This was my first time to walk the Pulaski Trail. I have been working on a couple fire history projects dealing with past accidents and major events. It was very heartening to see a site so well kept up and with so many visitors. So many of our historical sites are isolated and lonely locations with very little chance for the public to see, learn, and remember these lessons.
As to the walk itself, I appreciated the excellent story boards along the way documenting in word and pictures the 1910 fires and Ed Pulaski’s role in this particular canyon. Seeing the photos taken immediately after the burn, then looking at the canyon today, it does drive home the fact that managing our forest lands is not a one-step process.
The 1910 fires cleared these lands yet the fuel loads today look to be very similar to what might have been onsite prior to 1910. Allowing wildlands to just grow freely without any management of the fuel load will insure that in the near future young people will once again be back in this or nearby canyons; using more modern equipment, but still carrying Pulaskis, doing the same things and taking the same risks. While this trail does rightfully serve to remember the sacrifice and courage of those involved in the 1910 fires, it also serves to show us that without some cost, compromise and inconvenience today we are setting up to relive the 1910 events in the near future.
Bill Molumby, former Hotshot Superintendent, US Fish & Wildlife Service Zone Fire Management Officer, and National Type 1 Incident Commander –
The Pulaski Trail hadn’t been on my radar until Jim Cook mentioned it as a possible trip for OM&F. As I read the pre-study information that Tom Boatner sent out and watched the “Big Burn” documentary, it became clear this was going to be a significant trip; not only for honoring the fallen, but understanding the historical, political and cultural significance to the nation. Being former Forest Service, I had heard the stories about Ranger Pulaski, the “Big Burn” and Gifford Pinchot, but never connected the dots. What I found in the research, the site visit and our discussion was epic; anchored in the story of one firefighter.
Aside from the bigger policy and philosophical issues, I was left with a new understanding and appreciation for the “forest rangers”. These men were given a task of protecting the forest in the face of immense political, public and nature’s pressures while lacking the resources to do the job. In spite of that, they did their best. Ranger Pulaski was given a job which he performed to the best of his ability, and I must say beyond. No radio, no dozers, no computers….just a sense of responsibility, duty, and service. And then there was Emma Pulaski, the wife of Ed, who rose to the occasion as did many other women, bringing coffee and whisky to the fireline to refresh the survivors. This is an epic story.
Bryan Scholz, former Hotshot Foreman and Ochoco National Forest District Assistant Fire Management Officer – Many of the places where firefighters have fallen are off in the backcountry and hard to visit, miles from roads and easy access. The sites of the Cramer Fire and Blackwater Fire come to mind. However, the site of the South Canyon Fire in West Glenwood Springs is always busy. There are always people on the trail, both firefighters passing through town who stop to pay their respects, and locals out with their dogs or running the trail. The fire site has become as busy as a city park. It is comforting, heartening, that our fallen are almost never alone.
So it is with the Pulaski Trail. The trail honors the firefighters that fell there, but also memorializes Ranger Ed Pulaski and the 45 firefighters he saved by holding them in a mine shaft until the fire had passed. Mid-week on a really hot day, we passed about thirty people going up and down the trail. The members of one group of four were (oddly enough) from all four corners of the country. Another group was a family of locals. Apparently the trail is always busy. It is a reason many people visit Wallace, not just for the tasty local beer. In places like this, our fallen are not forgotten.